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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-27-2011, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Front and Rear Diff Fluid

I was bout to change the fluid in my diffs, and I have some motorcraft synthetic 75w-140 from work that we use in f-150 diffs and was wondering if I could use that.If not what can I use and whats the best.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-27-2011, 06:23 PM
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I don't think that would hurt anything.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-28-2011, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks i was just making sure cuz i had "heard" that you were suppose to use a different fluid in the rear cuz of the brakes or something. And I also heard that marine grade fluid is better. Is that true?

BACK IN ACTION
2010 Rancher 4x4 es.......Front Brush Guards
12" SS 312....................Gorilla Radiator Relocate Kit
28" Outlaws Skinnies........K&N Air Filter
Power Commander V........Black and Red Pro Grips
Fully Snorkled................NGK Iridium Spark Plug
2" Moose lift..................Big Gun Evo Exhaust
2" Spring Spacers...........2600 rpm stall Clutch Kit
3" wheel spacers............Venom 3500lb winch
HID's............................JE high compression piston
bored .020
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-28-2011, 11:19 AM
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"hypoid" 80w is what they recommend but that should work fine. i dont see how marine grade is any "better" then hypoid but it'll do the job. im currently running 80-90 amsoil in my hondas and that does well too. now my polaris, thats a different story. polaris lubes are a joke
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-28-2011, 02:54 PM
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Like Manny said, you're supposed to use hypoid gear oil in the diffs, but not because of the brakes. Hypoid gear oil is used because of the "hypoid" gears in the differential. I'm assuming it's hypoid gear oil, since you were using it in the F-150 diffs and if that's the case, it should be OK.

I'm not sure about the marine grade, but regular hypoid gear oil is cheap enough that you can change it often if you're worried about getting water in the diff.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

Last edited by Helmut; 04-28-2011 at 02:56 PM.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-28-2011, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help.

BACK IN ACTION
2010 Rancher 4x4 es.......Front Brush Guards
12" SS 312....................Gorilla Radiator Relocate Kit
28" Outlaws Skinnies........K&N Air Filter
Power Commander V........Black and Red Pro Grips
Fully Snorkled................NGK Iridium Spark Plug
2" Moose lift..................Big Gun Evo Exhaust
2" Spring Spacers...........2600 rpm stall Clutch Kit
3" wheel spacers............Venom 3500lb winch
HID's............................JE high compression piston
bored .020
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-28-2011, 03:42 PM
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You're welcome.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-08-2011, 10:06 AM
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Marine grade gear lube would be better only for the fact that these axles often end up being submerged in water. That does not mean you should not immediately change the fluid if you get into deep water, its just mean those type gear lubes are formulated to tolerate a small amount of moisture. As much as 10% with the AMSOIL Marine lube and still maintain EP protection and protect from rust.

A hypoid is a type of spiral bevel gear whose axis does not intersect with the axis of the meshing gear such as used in Cars, trucks, ATV etc. The other type would be a worm gear.


Mike
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 09:05 PM
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I just ran my Rancher through some deep water (up to the racks...unbeknownst to me at first!). Spent about 1-2 minutes trying to get out. Should I change the front and rear end fluids to be safe?
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00rancheres View Post
I just ran my Rancher through some deep water (up to the racks...unbeknownst to me at first!). Spent about 1-2 minutes trying to get out. Should I change the front and rear end fluids to be safe?
I would, at least, check them for water in the gear oil. If you haven't changed the gear oil in a while, I would go ahead and change it, anyway.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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